Free Web Hosting Provider - Web Hosting - E-commerce - High Speed Internet - Free Web Page
Search the Web

Mike and Oreo

Pleasant Valley Heritage Farm

Articles


Home
Our Goals
Volunteers
Meet The Animals

Memorials
Adoption
Sponsorship
Donations
Fundraising
          Birthday Parties
Upcoming Events
Education
Newsletters
Services We Offer
Contact Us
Thank You!
Kid's PageKid's Page
Links
Forms & Brochures
The Kusiak Fund
Email

What Can You Do
To Help?
School's &  Children's
Organizations











Pictures Goes Here
















Articles

First Aid Supplies for the Farm

Here is a list of basic first aid supplies that will be useful in most cases of injury:
Disinfectant:
For cleaning wounds. Always dilute with clean water, according to manufacturer's instructions.
Apply to wound using cotton wool, always wiping from the center of the wound out towards the surrounding skin.

Antiseptic Swabs:
These enable to wound to be cleaned even without access to a water supply. I have found that anti-bacterial “baby” wipes work great.  They can also double for washing your hands at the barn.

Wound Powder/Ointment:
To prevent new infection from entering the wound. Ointments have some water resistance but are less easily absorbed than creams. Powders avoid the need to touch a wound, but are only absorbed by broken skin.
Following cleaning, no preparation should be used on a wound that has yet to be seen by your veterinarian.

Antibiotic Aerosol:
For treatment of wounds to prevent infection without damaging tissue. Often colored (eg: blue or violet) to help with targeting. Take care to spray gently from the recommended distance. Be sure you are not spraying into the wind, you do not want to get this in your eyes.

 Fly Repellent:
To keep flies away from wounds.  Do not get it into the open wound, I find it works best if wiped on around the site (flu wipes work best for this and come in “wet nap” type packaging)

Wound Dressings:
Telfa is best as it does not stick to wounds.

Bandages (2 or more):
They should be 3 - 4 inches wide. VetrapTM is excellent for this as it sticks to itself and not to the horse, or you can use Curlex bandage wraps found at pharmacies.
Any bandage should be applied over either cotton wool wrapped around the leg, or a padded leg wrap (abdominal pads work good, as do unscented maxi pads – buy them in individual wrapping to keep them clean).  For bad bleeding – apply with pressure.  Another item you could use would be the army supply stores first aid field dressings. They come wrapped in a sterile package that is water-proof.  Avoid open-weave or felt bandages with no "give" in them.

Elastoplast/Bandaids/Insulating tape or safety pins:
For fastening bandages.

Gamgee/Field Wrap (see bandages above):
Cotton wool sandwiched between two layers of gauze. Comes in rolls. Cut to shape for padding beneath bandages; also can be used as a pressure pad to stop bleeding. You can get this from your vet, or from an equine supply store. Padded leg wraps may be used, as long as they are well-fitting and do not bunch under the bandage and cause pressure points.

Cotton wool:
Include several large rolls. Useful for cleaning wounds if no swabs are available, mopping up and dabbing on powders. Not suitable for applying dry directly to wounds or for use as padding underneath bandages as it will stick to the wound. Take care to keep clean and dry.
 
Epsom Salts:
For soaking abscessed feet. Keep a large rubber bucket for foot soaks as the bucket will not crack as easily.

Bandage Scissors:
Must have rounded ends and should be kept sharp.
 
Tweezers/forceps:
To remove splinters, ticks, etc.
 
Thermometer:
Modern digital thermometers are easiest to read. Attach a string with a clip and make sure you don't lose the thermometer by attaching it to the horse's tail.
 
Petroleum jelly or water soluble lubricant:
To help insert the thermometer.  Also protects soft tissues from soreness and chafing.

Ask your vet which Medications you should keep on hand such as Bute, and Benadryl. Make a list of their uses, and doses.

Keep a note pad and pen in your kit for writing down information you may need to pass on to your vet.
 
I keep a weight tape for horses in my kit so that I can quickly determine medication doses accurately.

Some Things to Remember
Remember that a first aid kit is only useful in an emergency if it is right where you need it. You might want to put together more than one kit - one for the barn, one for the trailer and a small kit containing non-stick gauze and a crepe bandage, to take with you on the trails. I use a fanny pack for the trail kit, and a tool box for the barn kit.
Write down your veterinarian's phone number on all first aid kits.
First aid kits are intended only for immediate, emergency action or for dealing with small cuts and scrapes, not for dealing with major injuries or illnesses. When in doubt, call your veterinarian.
Adapted from First Aid Kit
http://www.equisearch.com/care/firstaid/firstaidkit081797/

Copyright2005PleasantValleyHeritageFarm
Website Designed & Maintained By:Debbie